By peering underneath, one can gain a better understanding of and perspective on what appears on the surface.
In this case, undergarments reveal plenty and describe an interesting story about women and their ever-changing look and standing in American society throughout time.
From bustles and corsets in the 1880s, to girdles and cone-shaped brassieres in the 1950s, to today’s almost-anything-goes approach, women have been subjected to certain expectations about how they should look.
Society’s obsession with body imagery and beauty has placed a burden on women who responded and consequently suffered from the demands and changes in fashion, trends and attitudes over decades.
Undergarments tell a unique chapter in women’s history. It is the subject of a popular exhibit now on display at the White River Valley Museum. “Suffer for Beauty: A Revealing Look at Women’s History Through Undergarments,” provides a rare, historical examination of how women have practiced, reacted and experienced ever-changing societal norms of beauty and how undergarments were used to contour a certain look of their time.
Undergarments provide a curiosity, a means to chronicle a part of women’s history. Such a creative approach comes courtesy of guest curator Dr. Michelle Marshman and museum director Patricia Cosgrove.
“Undergarments are titillating in themselves,” said Marshman, a history teacher at Green River Community College who collaborated with Cosgrove to produce their fourth exhibit at the museum. “The subject of beauty … we think about it on a daily basis.
“We hope (the exhibit) provides intergenerational conversation about female beauty … health issues with body imagery … and the role of women in society.”
While Marshman provided the historical context and narrative for the exhibit, Cosgrove produced the aesthetics. That combination brings the presentation to life.
“The history of women’s undergarments reveals more than lace, snaps and straps,” Cosgrove said. “It offers unique insights about what society thought of women and expected from them at a certain point in time.”
The intimate exhibit comes full circle, beginning with the bustles and corsets of 1880-1900, the less binding clothes of the progressive 1900-1920 era, the restricting fashions of the 1910s, the freeing 1920s, the economical 1930s, the wartime masculine years of the 1940s, and finally the “new look” from 1947-’50s.
As years passed, so did women’s ideal body shapes, roles and ideas. Each era of the exhibit offers a stylish outfit, a silhouette of the ideal woman’s shape of the time, photos of trendsetters and local women, and examples of underwear.
Many of the area’s residents provided an extensive collection of clothing from the different eras.
The exhibit explains how bustles of the 1870-80s accentuated a woman’s derriere, waist and bosom. Crushing corsets of the late 19th century were used to cinch a women’s waist to the popular hourglass silhouette of the time. The ideal waist for a woman was 18 inches, and tight corseting often caused indigestion, constipation, broken ribs and liver failure.
If a woman’s body was controlled, she was tightly laced, Marshman said. Loosely laced, a woman had more freedom.
Given a certain era, dress defined conservatism, even subordination, in women, Marshman explained. Changing dress suggested a completely different meaning in other eras.
The exhibit also visits the late 19th century and political movements. For example, women active in anti-slavery and temperance movements lobbied for equitable treatment and sensible clothing.
Sections of the exhibit reflect the war years and how the eras shaped women’s fashion and attitudes. World War I (1914-18) meant leaner times and a lack of steel for civilian use, including corset making. Limited steel and the earlier development of rubberized elastic materials in 1911 helped the girdle replace the corset. The hemlines of women’s skirts also began to rise in an effort to save material, and women were encouraged to work more outside the home.
“Suffer for Beauty” also explores how masculinity and military-style fashion influenced women’s wear as they filled men’s factory jobs during World War II.
The exhibit concludes with Christian Dior’s “New Look” in the late 1940s. Such a look brought women’s fashion full circle, with the revival of a sensual, feminine hourglass shape characterized by a lengthy full skirt, large bust and small waistline reminiscent of bustles and corsets.
In essence, the exhibit demonstrates how social change affects women and fashion.
The exhibit also provokes discussion and debate about healthy choices in regards to fashion-shaped body imagery.
Today, women are more inclined to pursue other means to achieve certain body shapes. Plastic surgery has taken off in pop culture, Marshman said. In most cases, anatomical augmentation has replaced fabric.
Women will go to great lengths to achieve a certain look. But whatever those means might be, women need to learn from their past and make healthy choices about their future, Marshman said.
“Today we are not required to be bustled or corseted,” Marshman explained. “We have a choice and when making a choice, be informed.”
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On display
• Exhibit:
• Venue: White River Valley Museum, 918 H St. SE, Auburn.
• Hours: Exhibit open through Nov. 8. The museum is open Wednesday-Sunday, noon-4 p.m.
• Admission: $2 adults, $1 seniors and children, and free on Wednesdays.
• Information: 253-288-7433, www.wrvmuseum.org
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Other ‘Suffer for Beauty’ events
The following events are offered in conjunction with the exhibit. Unless otherwise noted, events are included with museum admission.
• The Golden Oldies Presents: A Fabulous Vintage Fashion Show: 2-3 p.m., Saturday. Highlighting a century of fashion highs and lows, this entertaining, educational look at the history of women’s fashion includes live music and hilarious commentary. Admission is $5 adults and $4 seniors/children. Museum admission included.
• Family Day: Dressing Up! Noon-4 p.m., Oct. 10. A hands-on celebration of “Suffer for Beauty” that includes fun for the whole family.
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About the White River Valley Museum
The White River Valley Museum is a partnership with the City of Auburn and combines history and culture to create an exciting and educational experience for visitors. Museum collections focus on Puget Sound history, Northwest Indian culture, Japanese immigration and the Northern Pacific Railroad.
The White River Valley Museum is the best local history museum in the state according to the 2007 Washington State Visitors Guide.
