That mouthwatering, homemade taste had been missing too long from the local barbecue scene, so the former street-corner preacher resurrected it.
Craig Jackson, a friendly, good-natured man of principles, just couldn’t resist another chance to serve up the authentic, old-school flavor of Kansas City-style barbecue.
“I’m a real barbecue man from barbecue country,” Jackson said on a break between customers at his new spot in south Auburn, Ribbins Bar-B-Q. “I’m happy to be back in it. It’s my passion.”
The 54-year-old pastor, husband, father and mentor first got into the restaurant business at Ribbins, a reputable spot for Kansas City-style barbecue in Seattle and Ballard. He joined four brothers in a venture that survived a couple of relocations and 12 years of tough times before the men went their separate ways.
A change of heart then called Jackson to ministry as a pastor in his South Seattle neighborhood.
In the next 17 years, Jackson established a house of worship, responding to the spiritual needs of struggling families and at-risk youth. As he made inroads in the Skyway community with the King of Glory Church, Jackson’s own home grew quiet. His daughter and two sons went off to college.
Jackson realized that he needed to scratch an itch by revisiting the kitchen and welcoming customers. He had the time and know-how, all he lacked was a place to work.
“It was like, ‘What was I going to do with myself?’ ” said Jackson, who had worked his way up from a busboy in Kansas City to part ownership of a Seattle restaurant. “I decided I needed to do this. I enjoy doing this.”
Jackson soon found a good spot in Auburn and last year opened a restaurant along the busy A Street Southeast corridor. He found the vacancy while following his daughter’s basketball team, Chief Sealth High, to Auburn Riverside High School for a game.
Despite the troubled economy, Jackson remains optimistic that his haven for tasty lunch and dinner will take off in time.
Taste from home
Jackson’s secret for success comes from staying true to some family recipes passed down over the generations. The unique taste began in Kansas where he grew up in a large, tight family that included some great cooks, notably his mother and grandparents.
His grandfather, Jesse Edwards, mastered a shrimp fry dish that still makes Jackson smile.
That culinary influence stuck. Jackson soon was developing and mastering his own dishes, spiced by a legendary family barbecue sauce.
Today, Jackson serves up the same spicy barbecue sauce, a family recipe of 50 years vintage that take five hours to make from scratch. While Jackson safeguards its ingredients, he will admit to a splash of red pepper and garlic.
“It’s got some bite to it,” he said. “The sauce has to have some kick.”
Jackson’s signature sauce is unmistakably his own and it sets the tone for his wide-ranging barbecue menu – from ribs and pulled pork to chicken and beef brisket, to hot links and grilled burgers.
His kitchen includes the right mix of ingredients – a smoker, large stove, good part-time help and a smiling preacher.
“Craig is a great guy, up front and well-kept,” said co-worker E.J. Francis. “The church congregation loves him, the customers love him.
“He’s also an inspirational person and someone who is willing to help you when help is needed.”
Jackson’s willingness to reach out to people is rooted in his Christian upbringing. But his determination to work exclusively with at-risk youth dates to an episode more than 25 years ago.
Driving to work one day in Seattle, he heard a gunshot and immediately pulled into the parking lot to see what the commotion was all about. He found and approached a 16-year-old boy lying on the ground, shot in the head, surrounded by 75 mostly young onlookers.
“That night I decided I was going to work with youth,” Jackson declared. “I had to become a solution to the problem.”
For those Jackson couldn’t reach, he provided jobs at his restaurant. By his words and actions, he helped lift many youngsters out of the mire.
Jackson continues to extend a gracious hand today. Just recently, he found himself working with a troubled teenager. He welcomed him into his restaurant and worked with him throughout the day, teaching him responsibility and other values.
“Hopefully, I did things to change his life, the way he goes about doing things in his life,” Jackson said.
Back on his feet
Jackson conquered his own demons to help others. As a young man he fell into the trap of drug and alcohol abuse, but found treatment and salvation with the Lord, a miraculous transformation in his view.
At home, he and his wife, Turlene, remain involved in their children’s lives as they prosper in college. Nia is studying sports marketing and playing guard on the basketball team at the University of Oregon. Nathan is majoring in community health and plays basketball at Central Washington, while Caleb is pursuing a degree in mechanical engineering at Eastern Washington University.
“I just love my kids,” he said.
The proud papa and influential preacher now has time to return to the kitchen to don an apron, take orders and give them. He’s built a place with soul and good-tasting food.
“I’m bringing a taste that’s decades old,” Jackson said, “and it’s a taste that I know is good.”
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WE’RE OPEN
• Restaurant:
• Name’s origin: Combining “ribs” with “bibs”
• Location: 4435 A St. SE, Auburn
• Specialties: World-class, Kansas City-style barbecue favorites, including beef brisket, ribs, chicken, smoked pulled pork and smoked salmon, Louisiana hot links. Side items feature homemade-style greens, potato salad and corn bread. Desserts include sweet potato pie and peach cobbler.
• Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11-9:30 Friday-Saturday; 1-7 Sunday.
• Phone: 253-288-2019 (catering available)
